Back in the 9thC, Lozère was actually part of Aquitaine until 814 when Louis the Pious (son of Charlemagne) divided his kingdom for his three surviving sons. Powerful fiefdoms emerged, among the best known of which was the County of Gévaudan. In 1166 Alfonso II, King of Aragon (in Spain), inherited Gévaudan. Local nobility took advantage of a distant monarch to give themselves titles and to acknowledge their Bishop as sovereign. They built fortresses for protection and to show the locals who was boss! Vestiges of these castles form an important part of Lozère’s heritage.

The pleasure of little 'discoveries', old and new

Major old trade roads have for over 1000 years crossed the Lozère highlands of Languedoc. So too Pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela, and Pilgrim routes down to the Mediterranean and the Holy Land. If you’re fascinated by historic anecdote and little known events, your curiosity will be amply rewarded in this secret corner of France where time seems so often to have stood still. See our holiday suggestion below.

See historic Mende, jewel of Pilgrim
towns on the Chemin St-Jacques

There’s still a medieval feeling about Mende, capital of Lozère and well positioned right in the centre of the county. The stunning Gothic Cathedral (15thC to late 19thC) presides over the atmospheric old town with its cobbled streets; the 12thC bridge over the River Lot is an architectural masterpiece, with 3 arches and 2 bows. This little ‘medieval city’ on the Pilgrim Way to Santiago de Compostela bustles with shops and festivals.

Thermal Spas or Health Spas

France has never lost the popular, age-old tradition of health spas. The natural spring waters at Bagnols-les-Bains (800m high on the slopes of Mont Lozère) have been popular since Roman times. You can today enjoy all the health-giving benefits of an authentic spa in modern comfort. Pamper yourself.

There are Thermal Spas too at La Chaldette. In the 12thC pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela would stop here to benefit from the healing powers of the thermal waters. Like Chaudes-Aigues in nearby Cantal, the natural hot springs at La Chaldette arise out of the volcanic subsoil.

From Roman to Romanesque

As you cross the little village of Lanuéjols you’ll be surprised to come across the remains of a 3rdC Roman Mausoleum built by the town’s then ‘master’, Julius Bassianus in memory of his two sons. Lanuéjols also has a delightful 13thC & 15thC Romanesque church. In nearby Vitrolles (3km), the restored fountain once served to keep milk cool!

The Hundred Years War (1337-1453)~
and Cévennes Uprising (1702)

These two historic episodes link the histories of Britain and Lozère. Many battles of the Hundred Years War were fought in Lozère. The King of England, descendant of William the Conqueror, already ruled large swathes of France and wanted more. Edward III was son of Eleanor of Aquitaine and when the French King died without heir in 1328, Edward felt his claim to Aquitaine was justified.

It was in peaceful Lozère, believe it or not, that the Cévennes Uprising took place following the assassination of an anti-Protestant cleric by the Camisards (Calvinist Partisans). The Camisards had close links with the Scottish Covenanters. Huguenot and Protestant influences remain strong today.

An unusual Journey through History in the Cévennes This 5-day/4-night cultural break makes for a fascinating ‘rediscovery’ of history, from La Garde Guérin to Villefort. It takes you along the “Regordane Way” - a little known yet ancient route followed for centuries by traders, pilgrims, knights and hawkers, their minstrels and troubadours. This is also the strategic old pewter or tin road from Ile de France through the Upper Loire Valley, Ardèche and Lozère down to the Mediterranean; the spices and salt road; the wine, cheese and oil route. The “Regordane Way” is also known as the Chemin de St-Gilles. La Garde Guérin overlooks the impressive Chassezac Gorges. It is one of the most beautiful fortified villages in France. The former chapel of the castle, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, is now the church. The village of Villefort, at the foot of Mount Lozère, was successively Catholic and Protestant. It marks the entry to the Cévennes. In the early 19thC, about 200 mules, mostly loaded with wine, would cross through every day! There is a huge lake near the village where you can swim, sail or fish. Your overnight stays are at two charming hotels which form part of the “Demeures de Lozère” selection of hotels chosen for their hospitality and fine cuisine based on local traditions. Nights 1 & 2: ‘Auberge Régordane’ Hotel at La Garde Guérin: One of the village’s 16thC noble houses where it has been a tradition to welcome and protect travellers for 1000 years. Of interest nearby: the village of Langogne (beautiful 11thC Burgundian Romanesque church and 18thC corn market) and Lac de Naussac (1000 hectare lake with leisure facilities including canoeing, riding, walking and various water sports). Nights 3 & 4: ‘Hotel Balme’ at Villefort: friendly and welcoming, with excellent cuisine. In fact, the first sight you see on entering the hotel is the chef at work - a glass panel separating kitchen and entrance hall! Of interest nearby: the village of Vialas (typical Cévennes village with its old houses and Protestant Church dating back to 1612) and the Pont de Montvert - site at which Père Du Chayla, accused of torturing Protestants, was murdered in 1702; the event triggered the Cévennes Uprising of the Camisards (Calvinist Partisans) Price: 340 Euros per person (sharing double bedroom). The price includes: 4 nights half-board (bed & breakfast & evening meal) and welcoming aperitif at both hotels. Evening meals are based on a ‘gourmand’ à la carte menu. Valid from: 01 May to 30 June and from 01 September to 30 November 2005. For more information and to book this stay: email us